Episode 24:

Bias cutting

Bias Cutting & Sewing Explained

Caroline’s back! For her return we decided to spill the beans on one of our favourite techniques…cutting on the bias!
Yes, that 45 degree grain line that we know you all love and love to hate. Expect explanations of what it is, how to do it, why we love it, tips for sewing and plenty of bias pattern cutting and sewing related stories.

This beautiful bias cut dress was draped by Madam Vionette and is a perfect example of piecing together bias pieces while keeping the seams on the straight grain.
let’s take a closer look at why a bias grain gives us a stretch effect

Our Top Tips for Cutting on the Bias:

  • Grains should form a chevron at side seams
  • Try to avoid zips/fastenings as the fabric ripples/warps/stretches 
  • Let your seam hang before stitching if the grain is at slightly odd angles when meeting at seams. The fabric will drop dramatically!
  • Stay stitch, don’t tape…this allows the fabric to move more
  • Toile in fabric VERY similar or exactly the same…this is where the differences in fabrics really show up!
  • Get something on the body or stand ASAP…there’s not very much you can predict about a bias garment on a flat pattern
  • Cut fabric on paper, with warp & weft lines marked on and fabric pinned down…this ensures the grain is true!
  • Be really gentle when stitching & pressing, don’t pull or distort fabric
  • Allow your garment to hang before hemming it

Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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