Episode 36

Facings & Linings

Constructing Facings & Linings

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This episode is all about the mysterious world of linings and facings. Why we use them, how we construct them and the difference between the two. We also have a few pattern makers tricks for you that might help to solve some of those common mistakes and faults that we often see with linings and facings.

Why we use Linings and Facings and the importance of them:

  • Extra comfort and warmth
  • Creates a cleaner finish on outer edges of necklines and armholes etc.
  • Hides everything on inside, seams, stitching, embroidery, raw edges etc.
  • Stiffens soft areas like buttons, necklines, and cuffs. Adding stability and reinforcing the area.
  • Unique linings, facings and internal details can be used to identify a brand or separate real garments from fakes.
  • Backing for printed fabrics like frills, under collars and waistbands 
  • Contrast colour etc for design purposes 
  • Adds Luxury and feels gorgeous!

What the Difference is between a Linings and Facings:

  • Cost: Lining is more expensive, more fabric and construction.
  • Size: Lining is full length, facing is partial.
  • Fabric & fusing …Facings are usually fused self and linings are a thinner light weight fabric. 
  • Finishes: Linings either bagged out or hemmed separately, Facings are overlocked, bound or sink stitched into seam such as waist bands etc.

Constructing Linings and Facings:

  • Linings are always wider in width to allow movement.
  • If Linings are bagged out the hem or caught at the waist seam then we always add extra length to allow for movement and shrinkage.
  • If linings are loose at the hem then we make them 2cm shorter than the outer.
  • Linings are less fitted and constructed than the outer. Lots of darts are converted to tucks or pleats (CB Jacket) and the sewing is made much simpler.
  • Facings often same shape as the pattern its being stitched to minus between 0.2cm and 0.4mm so that the outer rolls inside slightly.
  • Tailoring: Bagged out on the hems with a lip & use Caroline’s Saville row trick to ensure the sleeve and armhole lining is hidden away out of sight!
  • Lining constructed separately and then inserted at the end as a full piece 

Common Lining and Facing Mistakes and How to Overcome Them.
Pattern Cutters Tips and Tricks:

  • Problem: Linings too short on tailoring
    Solution: Need to add extra length when bagged out
  • Problem: Lining fabric shrinks
    Solution: Preshrink fabric and steam
  • Problem: Lining fabric drops below hem
    Solution: Allow to drop and take off excess and amend pattern
  • Problem: You can see the bottom edge of the facing as an impression through the outer.
    Solution: Extend bottom edge of pattern, use thinner fabric, change hem finish
  • REMEMBER: Lining fabrics behave differently in different colours and weights and garments. Test fabric and shrink tests before 
  • REMEMBER: Stretch fabric must use stretch lining 
  • REMEMBER: We don’t usually line bias cut garments but if you do, it must be on the same grain and same fabric or the fabrics ‘fight’ inside and twist

Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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