Episode 41

Explaining Pockets

Who doesn’t love it when you buy and dress and IT HAS POCKETS?!
Our beloved pockets are an integral part of garment construction and they come in many different shapes and sizes. Join us to talk through some of our favourite pocket details, construction and tips.

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Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 40

The Importance of Inner Garment Construction

The inside of your garments are just as important as the outside, sometimes even more so! 
So we’re talking fusing, corsets, boning, shoulder pads, sleeve rolls, bustles, cups and all those hidden components of your garments that provide support and structure.

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Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 39

Life as a Bridal Designer, with Charlotte Wilden

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Charlotte Wilden runs her own bespoke bridal service and does everything from the initial design, pattern cutting, sewing and even the final embroidery and hand finishing. She has a beautiful design aesthetic which is evident in her work and we can’t wait to share her world and little more about our bridal experience with you all.

After Charlotte completed her studies doing Costume Interpretation at Wimbledon where she was introduced to pattern cutting she took every opportunity to do multiple work experience placement and further courses. It was while she was on a summer beading workshop at LCF she got asked to work for a private atelier who worked with some really elaborate fabrics. It was here she learned a lot about how to use lace creatively, and hand finishing’s on her bridal which she still uses today.

With her skills on board she then worked for brands such as Jenny Packham in London and Marchesa in NYC but it was whilst studying as a post graduate in pattern cutting at LCF, that she found her love for Bridal. Via word of mouth, and a small Tumblr Blog she got more private bridal commissions and it took off from there. She now has a small workshop in Epsom creating bespoke made to measure bridal gowns under the brand Wilden London.

Find Charlotte:
Instagram
Website


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 38

How to Fit a Garment

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We’re bringing you all our tips and tricks on how to get a beautifully fitting garment and what to watch out for in a fitting. From measurements, to bust points to balance lines we’ve got it all!

A few Tips for Fitting

  • Fitting is not as simple as looking at a picture and giving a diagnosis
  • It’s much more organic and you need to get stuck in and pinch the fabric, pin things out and cut into the garment.
  • It’s almost impossible to fit on yourself alone, get a sewing buddy or even just a regular buddy to help you out with your views
  • Sometimes it’s worth looking at the pattern and going back to the building blocks if you’re struggling to work out what’s wrong with the garment.

Things to look out for on all garments

  • Balance
  • Circumference measurements
  • Is the length correct?
  • Can you get it on and off easily?
  • Can you move in it?
  • Does it look like the design?

Things to look out for on bodices

  • Is the bust point in the correct place?
  • Is the bust shaping correct?
  • Is the shoulder dart there? And is it in the correct place/shape?
  • Is the cross shoulder circumference correct?

Things to look out for on skirts:

  • Tummy and bum dart width and position
  • Is the hem circ wide enough to walk? If not, add a vent or split
  • Total rise length, height and width
  • Rise curve shape
  • Are the pockets sitting flat?

Things to look out for on Sleeves:

  • Sleeve head shape, height and width
  • Is your bicep big enough to move and is your bust measurement big enough too?
  • This is again where your cross body comes into it

Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 37

Launching an Indie Pattern Label, with Vanessa Hansen

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There is so much more to launching your own pattern label than meets the eye. Vanessa Hansen, professional pattern cutter, has recently launched her own indie pattern label and she’s here to share her experiences, lessons learnt and let us in on exactly what it’s taken to get it off the ground.

Who is Vanessa?

Vanessa and I met while I was working at Topshop. We quickly found that we shared a love of dramatic dresses and technology.

She began her career in London as an intern for Vivienne Westwood. Since then she’s worked for brands including Erdem, Emilia Wickstead, Issa London, Reiss and Topshop.

After taking a break to have a baby she decided to enter the home sewing world by launching her own Indie pattern label.

Vanessa has 2 gorgeous patterns released so far (and loads more in the works!)

The Viva Jacket
The Lynn Pinafore

Vanessa lets us in on her process and what involved in each step, here’s a glimpse into her world!


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 36

Constructing Facings & Linings

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This episode is all about the mysterious world of linings and facings. Why we use them, how we construct them and the difference between the two. We also have a few pattern makers tricks for you that might help to solve some of those common mistakes and faults that we often see with linings and facings.


Why we use Linings and Facings and the importance of them:

  • Extra comfort and warmth
  • Creates a cleaner finish on outer edges of necklines and armholes etc.
  • Hides everything on inside, seams, stitching, embroidery, raw edges etc.
  • Stiffens soft areas like buttons, necklines, and cuffs. Adding stability and reinforcing the area.
  • Unique linings, facings and internal details can be used to identify a brand or separate real garments from fakes.
  • Backing for printed fabrics like frills, under collars and waistbands 
  • Contrast colour etc for design purposes 
  • Adds Luxury and feels gorgeous!

What the Difference is between a Linings and Facings:

  • Cost: Lining is more expensive, more fabric and construction.
  • Size: Lining is full length, facing is partial.
  • Fabric & fusing …Facings are usually fused self and linings are a thinner light weight fabric. 
  • Finishes: Linings either bagged out or hemmed separately, Facings are overlocked, bound or sink stitched into seam such as waist bands etc.

Constructing Linings and Facings:

  • Linings are always wider in width to allow movement.
  • If Linings are bagged out the hem or caught at the waist seam then we always add extra length to allow for movement and shrinkage.
  • If linings are loose at the hem then we make them 2cm shorter than the outer.
  • Linings are less fitted and constructed than the outer. Lots of darts are converted to tucks or pleats (CB Jacket) and the sewing is made much simpler.
  • Facings often same shape as the pattern its being stitched to minus between 0.2cm and 0.4mm so that the outer rolls inside slightly.
  • Tailoring: Bagged out on the hems with a lip & use Caroline’s Saville row trick to ensure the sleeve and armhole lining is hidden away out of sight!
  • Lining constructed separately and then inserted at the end as a full piece 

Common Lining and Facing Mistakes and How to Overcome Them.
Pattern Cutters Tips and Tricks:

  • Problem: Linings too short on tailoring
    Solution: Need to add extra length when bagged out
  • Problem: Lining fabric shrinks
    Solution: Preshrink fabric and steam
  • Problem: Lining fabric drops below hem
    Solution: Allow to drop and take off excess and amend pattern
  • Problem: You can see the bottom edge of the facing as an impression through the outer.
    Solution: Extend bottom edge of pattern, use thinner fabric, change hem finish
  • REMEMBER: Lining fabrics behave differently in different colours and weights and garments. Test fabric and shrink tests before 
  • REMEMBER: Stretch fabric must use stretch lining 
  • REMEMBER: We don’t usually line bias cut garments but if you do, it must be on the same grain and same fabric or the fabrics ‘fight’ inside and twist


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 35

The Grey Areas of Pattern Cutting

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 As pattern cutters, things aren’t always clear cut. Its our job to use our experience and knowledge and sometimes actually just our instinct to interpret the correct alteration or shape to put onto a pattern. Things aren’t always in black and white with pattern cutting so in this episode we try to answer some of those all too familiar questions that we often get asked and don’t really have a Yes or No answer for.


Points that we discuss in this episode

  • What’s the right way to do it?
  •  Is there a standard way to do things?
  • Why did/didn’t you do the alteration to the pattern like that?
  • Can you teach me how to pattern cut?
  • Is it ok for the design to change? 
  • Is the process different in different companies?

Some notes from our catch up

Kathryn talked about a treasure hunt game that you can play in the museums, there are many companies who offer this but the one that she has tried and loved is a company called breadcrumbs.


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 34

Costume Making, with Declan Jackson

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We are joined by Declan Jackson, professional pattern cutter turned costume maker.
He shares his journey from his start in the fashion industry to his move into the film industry. Having already got some big name productions under his belt, like Bridgerton and Mission Impossible, he’s onto an amazing start in his new career. Declan has always oozed creativity, as well as being super inspiring he also has some great tips and words of wisdom for any potential pattern cutters and costume makers.


Who is Declan?

Instagram

A huge thank you to Declan for joining us!

Declan started life in the fashion industry working as a pattern maker after studying fashion design at Ravensbourne. He’s worked for brands like Giles Deacon, Victoria Beckham, Topman and Karen Millen.
He’s always doing something super creative, from draping the most incredible pieces, to amazing drawings and illustrations and designing the most swoon worthy drag looks, so it’s no surprise that he made the move from commercial pattern cutter  to costume maker. You can now find him on the sets of big production films and series including the Little mermaid, Mission impossible. And the series we’re all obsessed with at the moment….Bridgerton.

Take a look at some of Declan’s amazing work

How to get into costume making

Declan recommends getting a BA (hons) degree in costume making to make a smooth entry to the industry. While his journey has been a little different, he is finding that many of his team have come through the “Costume for Theatre and Screen” course at UAL. This is the Wimbledon course that he references in the episode.


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 33

Everything You Need To Know About Darts

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Understanding darts, how they work and what to do with them is a fundamental part of pattern cutting. In this Episode we’re delving into the technical world of pattern making. Explaining what darts are, talking you through some theory, manipulations and much, much more!


We love hearing and sharing your feedback, thank you the @worthydesignstudio for making our day with this lovely message!

At the risk of sounding like a complete sap, I just wanted to say a massive thank you to you both for your work that you put into your podcast. As a designer getting back into pattern drafting after over 10 years out of practice, listening to your episode fills me with so much excitement and leaves me dying to get back to the cutting/dining room table. You’ve helped to remind me that the skills I learned in college are still there, I just need to practice them again. I’m in the middle of developing some new patterns for my little indie pattern company and you two are like a little cheerleading team on my shoulder so thank you both. Genuinely, you’ve been such an inspiration. Congrats and happy first podcast birthday

DART ROTATION

WANT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT DART MANIPULATION?

Kathryn and Caroline both have online classes where you can learn more about darts and how to manipulate and change them.


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

Subscribe to our blog for the latest episodes and bonus blog posts!

Episode 32

Our One Year Anniversary

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It’s been one whole year since we launched our podcast, can you believe it?!
Thank you all so much for your support, we wouldn’t be here without all of you.
We’re keeping it light hearted and fun for this one, with a Q & A reflecting on our time in the industry. Expect stories (both good and bad) and lots of silly moments together.



Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

Subscribe to our blog for the latest episodes and bonus blog posts!