Episode 52

Digital Pattern Cutting, with Ben Cooper

With over 27 years of industry experience, it’s safe to say that Ben Cooper really knows his stuff! In this episode we discuss digital pattern cutting as a whole, his journey and how his love for technology has fuelled his professional work. He now passes on that knowledge to his students through teaching at Gerber, Fashion Enter and Fashion Tutor so we felt he was the perfect person to discuss this great topic with us!

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A big thank you to Ben for joining us on the podcast!

Ben Cooper is a creative pattern cutter and Gerber teacher.
He has had an impressive 27 years in the industry but it started with his mother, who provided a made-to-measure dressmaking service, Ben started making hats and shirts at the age of 15 and he subsequently went on to study fashion at college.

After finishing his studies, eager to gain some experience, he took his portfolio and walked the streets of the West End until he was offered his first design job. After gaining some more experience over the next few years he then realised that if he was to produce a quality garment that fitted well, he would need to refine his pattern cutting skills. He subsequently secured a role as Junior Pattern Cutter at French Connection and it was there that he was first introduced to computer aided design (CAD).

During the following years Ben worked as a toilist and pattern cutter for a number of well known high street brands including Aquascutum, Temperley, River Island and Marks & Spencer. He worked predominantly on ladies tailoring and outerwear but also dabbled in other departments too.
He was not only mastering pattern cutting but also the use of the CAD systems.

It wasn’t long until he decided to teach himself AccuMark Gerber.

During the following years he has been confidently gathering a broad and in-depth knowledge of the software through day-to-day use.

All of this experience and a love of technology has brought him to where he is now as one of Gerber’s, FashionTutor and Fashion Enter’s specialist Gerber teachers.


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 51

Subtraction Cutting, with Julian Roberts

Julian Roberts, a creative pattern cutter, teacher and academic joins Kathryn to talk about his unique method of creating garments and patterns called Subtraction Cutting. This was a hugely inspirational chat and I hope that it brings you all a fresh perspective on creative pattern cutting. A big thank you to Julian for joining me on the podcast!

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A big thank you to Julian for joining us on the podcast!

Julian is a Welsh born designer, pattern cutter, teacher and academic. 
He started his fashion life by studying his BA in fashion design at Northumbria Uni and went on to study an MA in menswear at the prestigious Royal College of Art. 
During years of study and ongoing work on his own label Nothing Nothing, he developed a technique of making patterns and garments called Subtraction Cutting. 
Julian showed 12 collections at London and Paris fashion week and won many awards including the “New Generation Award” from the BFC 5 times!
The label was extremely successful and generated a lot of press. One of my favourite things I came across while researching for this episode were stories from when he projected his whole collection onto the Natural History museum.
Since then, he’s made the move into teaching his unique method of cutting and all over the world, in 37 countries in fact! 
His name has become synonymous with creative pattern cutting and his techniques are widely referenced in publications, at universities and in fashion media.
When he’s not travelling the world, you can find him at the Royal College of Art where he is now a Tutor for the Graduate Diploma in Art & Design.


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 50

Biggest Pattern Cutting Mistakes

For our 50th episode we’re covering some of the biggest pattern cutting mistakes that we’ve made and been witness to. 
We’ve asked all of you what some of your biggest pattern cutting mistakes are and there were some wonderful answers that we wanted to share with you all!

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Our wonderful listeners sent in some of their biggest mistakes to go along side ours…

Worthy Design Studio:
When I was studying fashion, the 2nd yr students had to help the final year students with their degree collections. The girl I was helping was doing leather trousers and asked me to cut them out for her, emphasising how important it was to get it correct because A: it’s leather B: It was a very specific colour she’d had dyed to match her collection and C: we’re in Dublin and she’d had to go to London to get it ( internet shopping wasn’t really a thing yet!) so needless to say when I realised I’d cut out 2 of the same leg panel, I nearly burst into tears. She was pretty sound about it considering what I’d done but, ugh I could see the anger in her eyes!!!  It’s haunted me to this day!


@VanessaHansen
Making pockets ridiculously small and useless


@wildenlondon
My boss let an intern alter my pattern, then I couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t fit together!


@jmoffs
I cut my most expensive fabric upside down. Raindrops falling up instead of down


@godlovesastasher
Forgot to add seam allowance on the sleeves. Concluded the model was too broad


@drapeylines
I thought about adjusting the fit of my pattern AFTER all the pattern pieces were cut


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 49

Seams & Seam Allowance

This episode is all about seam allowance! That often overlooked, but 100% essential part of our patterns and garments. Expect to hear about how to add it, different types of seam finishes and the relating seam allowance. As well as how you can reinforce your seam allowance to ensure your garment lasts as long as possible.

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A huge thank you to Charlotta for joining Kathryn!

Charlotta has worked around the globe in capitals such as London and Hong Kong for luxury brands as both a designer and pattern cutter.
She also studied at the prestigious Central st. Martins and after working in the industry decided to share her love of fashion by becoming a fashion tutor at Suffolk New College. 
She currently runs her own online teaching platform called “School of Pattern Cutting” which specialises in offering online pattern cutting classes with a focus on vintage styles and detailing.

(Plus she loves cats and Pattern cutting…what more could you want?!)


New Patreon Tier

We have launched a new Patreon tier! This one is for those of you who want access to the monthly bonus episodes only. It costs £5 per month and you’ll get access to all existing episodes and all future episodes too!

Sign up here!


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

Subscribe to our blog for the latest episodes and bonus blog posts!

Episode 48

Ep. 48: Sustainable Pattern Cutting, with Sarah Rozelaar, Founder of The Sewing Retreat

Sarah is a fellow teacher of pattern cutting and a long time advocate of sustainability within the fashion and sewing industries. She founded her business with sustainability at its centre and while it’s grown and evolved over time, this remains one of her core values.
In this episode she shares her world with is and gives us her top tips for making your pattern cutting and sewing more sustainable.

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A huge thank you to Sarah for joining us!


New Patreon Tier

We have launched a new Patreon tier! This one is for those of you who want access to the monthly bonus episodes only. It costs £5 per month and you’ll get access to all existing episodes and all future episodes too!

Sign up here!


Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

Subscribe to our blog for the latest episodes and bonus blog posts!

Episode 47

Where to Learn Pattern Cutting

So you want to learn to make your own patterns but you’re not sure how to find the right teacher, course or resource? 
We’ve got you covered in this episode! Kathryn chats to Charlotta Ayers about pattern cutting courses for hobby sewists, would be professionals and anyone wanting to further their training. Grab a glass and start planning your next pattern cutting adventure…we’ve already got a few of these on our own wish lists too!

A few links from the show:

Courses and Classes for Hobby Sewers

Courses for Professional Training

Short Courses at Universities

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Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 46

Our Special VIP Guest…Say Hello to Kathryn’s Mum, Jill!

We often get asked about how we got into sewing and pattern cutting.
For Kathryn the answer always includes her mum, Jill!
So we asked the wonderful lady herself to join Kathryn and share her sewing journey with you all. It ranges from sewing at school, to opening her own businesses, sewing for fun and teaching her daughter to sew.
Sewing means a great deal to both Kathryn and Jill so we hope you enjoy this insight into their lives together.
A huge thank you to Jill for joining us! (Thanks mum!)

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Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 45

Understanding Necklines & How to Change Them

Necklines aren’t as easy to change as you might think, there’s a whole host of things to consider and tweak for different types of styles so sit back and relax as we explain what they are, how we do it and what you need to keep in mind when doing it.

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Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 44

How to Label Your Pattern and Why It’s Important

Join us, Caroline and Kathryn, as we dive into the important world of pattern labelling. We’re giving you the low down on what exactly we write on our patterns, why we do it, what the abbreviations are, what they mean and why they’re so essential!

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Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

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Episode 43

How to Speed Up Your Pattern Cutting

Pattern cutting can feel like a long process, especially when you’re also sewing your own garment or toile so we have a few tips and tricks that we use in the industry to speed things up a bit.

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Is there a topic you’d like us to cover? We’d love to hear from you! Contact Kathryn and Caroline directly with any comments / feedback on fashionhalfcut@gmail.com. Alternatively you can reach out on instagram @fashionhalfcut.

Subscribe to our blog for the latest episodes and bonus blog posts!